The next morning, with minimal delay, we were picked up by Amir at the bus station. While waiting for Amir, we picked up the bus tickets reserved by Pegah at TBC-Bus. Fortunately, the salespeople here also spoke English. According to Amir, it never happened that the buses were on time. So that we could start the day well strengthened, we had breakfast directly at the bus station. Once again, there was far too much to eat – Andreas took a good bite. Afterwards we had a look at the city center of Kerman. From the bazaar, which was not yet open, we went to the remains of the city wall and further to the Friday Mosque. As we strolled through a fruit and vegetable market, Amir tripped, fell down, but was able to roll himself off skillfully. After that we headed towards the Kaluts of Shadad.
Since the midday heat was almost unbearable, we stopped for lunch at the Shahzadeh Garden. Before we entered the garden, Amir treated us to cherries and homemade cake. We paid the obligatory million entrance fee. Andreas already met a like-minded person at the entrance – a professional photographer. After we had admired the park, it was already time for a little refreshment. While we made ourselves comfortable on the traditional benches, Amir got a speciality: Faloodeh kermani, a kind of soup made of starch balls, water and ice cubes with a strong mint taste. After half a plate, Melanie, despite 38degrees, froze so much that she had to put on a long-sleeved sweater.
Amir meant it very well with us and ordered another almost vegetarian lunch menu – among others Ghormeh Sabzi and various yogurt variations – because already in the evening meat should be served. As always, it tasted very good to us. But as always it was too much, so we fed the wild cats on the side. Round as a ball – Melanie was still freezing, by the way – we set off in the direction of the Kaluts.
After about 10 minutes of driving we had to stop. The car was broken. Amir had checked everything the day before and had done some repair work. Nevertheless, the lines of the fuel pump had burst. During an on-site repair attempt with cable ties, Amir only made things worse and the lines slipped deeper into the car. Three guesses: Amir was also driving a Samand and the cable ties and fuel lines were cheap copies from China. Amir then called a friend who picked us up a short time later and drove on with us. Amir gave us all the supplies on the way: cherries, peaches, and the cake – easily food for two days for two people.
On the way to the Kaluts we stopped at an abandoned caravanserai, which we explored at 46 degrees Celsius and without shade. In the early evening, around 6:30 pm, we reached our destination. The surroundings were breathtaking and we decided to climb a lonely rock. But it was not so lonely here at all. When we reached the top, we spotted about 30m further 9 SUV’s and accordingly many other tourists and locals. We shot quite a few photos before a very familiar sound came to Andreas’ ears – one of the other tourists was flying a DJI drone, which are actually prohibited in Iran. Had we discovered a spy in the middle of the desert? No matter. Andreas was slightly sour because he had left the drone in Germany to avoid being arrested “by mistake”.
Amir, who had his car repaired in the meantime, arrived about 30min after us and we changed cars again. Amir, who knows the desert like no other, brought us to a somewhat remote place, because he also had no real desire for crowds. On the way to this place Amir now really turned on.
Andreas had already spent half the day wondering why Amir put on extra gloves for the drive. The solution was that he was driving through the dunes as if he had a 4×4. Andreas grinned over both ears while we drifted through the dunes and Melanie became more and more restless. Amir showed us the best spots that even the other 4×4 cars didn’t hit.
On a rock we enjoyed the sunset and afterwards Amir opened his desert café, consisting of a camping table, camping chairs, tea, coffee and cake. In the meantime it was dark and Amir showed us the stars with the laser pointer. After Andreas had nibbled a lot of cold fruit and we had been fattened up all day, his intestines spoke up – it was urgent. Actually, it had been urgent before – but now there was real alarm in the intestines. Mel tried to make the desert toilet palatable to Andreas, but due to the circumstances and his pride, he kept waving “thanks”. He could no longer enjoy the starry sky. When Amir told us that the drive to the accommodation would still take about 50 minutes, Andreas had ice-cold beads of sweat on his face.
During the entire ride, Andreas didn’t say another word, crampedly holding on to the “emergency grip” and fighting against rising feelings of faintness. Finally arrived at the hotel, Andreas blew up two things: on the one hand the world record in the sprint for 60m, on the other hand … well, let’s leave out the details at this point.
For dinner we had tender legs of lamb, lots of rice and bread. After dinner, the wellness program began and Andreas dangled his feet in the small stream that flowed across the grounds of the lodge and let fish nibble at him while he recorded a promotional video for Pegah of Persiangates’ social media channels. Afterwards, we talked with Amir and the lodge owner about all sorts of things well into the morning hours.
Link to Persiangates and contact details of Amir (both an absolute recommendation):
Amir Moghaddam: [email protected]; +989131982482
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